Japan promoting stronger tasting 'mother cow' wagyu for exports

Japan is looking to export more wagyu from refattened mother cows, aged 90 to 100 months and previously considered to be of low value, individually fed to produce meat with moderate fat.

Wagyu from young cows aged 27 to 30 months is highly-priced because of its tenderness.

However, some consumers feel that the tender, marbled meat, which is preferred in Japan, has a weaker taste because it comes from younger animals.

Meanwhile, the deliciousness of meat from older cows appears to be popular in Europe, where there has been a positive response to the new wagyu.

Julho Farm purchases mother cows from all over Japan and examines them in detail for growth and feed consumption. The mother cows are given high-quality feed enriched with yeast and vitamins and a stress-free environment.

The result is wagyu with moderate fat content at a lower price.

According to Jukuho Farm, the meat quality changes as it is aged with umami components like amino acids.

Local exporters and breeders of cows are focusing on satisfying the tastes of overseas customers and their emphasis on animal welfare in livestock breeding.

While mother cows are still not a favorite in Japan, their low-fat content and deliciousness is acknowledged, said Jukuho Farm president Shuhei Ishitobi.

Ginkakuji Onishi buys about 30 mother cows from Jukuho Farm in Shimane Prefecture, western Japan every month and exports the wagyu beef to eight countries, including France, Italy, the Netherlands, and Singapore.

Hideki Onishi, Ginkakuji Onishi's overseas division manager, is hopeful of expanding the market for mother cow meat, which, he says, in addition to the robust aroma peculiar to wagyu, also has a deep umami flavor.

To showcase the mother cow wagyu steak, the Japan External Trade Organization and the Japanese Embassy in Switzerland organized an event in Bern for Swiss importers, retailers, butchers, and chefs.

After sampling the new wagyu at the event, a butcher from a high-end Swiss store commented that it is fantastic and it "melts in the mouth."

The butcher added that he would have liked to see raw pieces of meat to judge their quality.

Swiss consumers are increasingly sensitive to animal welfare, judging as unacceptable the cruel methods of livestock breeding, such as the use of cages in poultry farming.

A Swiss wagyu beef importer said the ethical aspect of the mother cow wagyu beef is "sensational" and builds a strong case for the product's marketability.

The importer added that it is crucial to raise awareness about the differences between regular and mother cow wagyu meat.