In a rundown warehouse on the outskirts of Beijing, entrepreneur An Dawei surveys rows of used industrial kitchen equipment—remnants of failed restaurants across the city. "For the average person, opening a restaurant is almost a guaranteed failure," said An, whose business dismantled around 200 eateries monthly in 2024, a 270% increase from the previous year.
Many of these closures stem from dashed hopes of a post-COVID economic rebound. Consumers, faced with a sluggish economy, are dining out less, leading to fierce price competition. Budget-friendly deals like 9.9 yuan ($1.40) coffees and 99 yuan ($14) family meals have flooded the market. Yet, this race to the bottom is unsustainable.
With China grappling with deflation—consumer inflation in February fell at the fastest pace since early 2024—spending remains tight. In cities like Beijing and Shanghai, restaurant closure rates now exceed 10% monthly. High rents, low foot traffic, and shifting consumer habits are squeezing profits. A bakery near Beijing’s Olympic Park, for instance, failed after 14 months despite a prime location.
Mid-tier restaurants, charging around 100-120 yuan per person, are particularly vulnerable. Many are forced to slash costs to 70-80 yuan per customer, risking quality and long-term survival. Industry analysts warn of a “vicious cycle,” where profit pressures lead to poorer ingredients and deteriorating customer trust.
After mass layoffs in sectors like tech, education, and real estate, many turned to the food business, triggering an oversupply of restaurants. As China’s food and beverage growth dropped to 5.3% in 2024 from 20.4% the previous year, surviving eateries now face razor-thin margins.
While the government pledges to tackle excessive market competition, the damage is visible: empty storefronts, secondhand ovens, and a once-thriving dining scene now in crisis.
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